Phillip Lim got deep into geology this season. And when asked, after his show, what got him so interested in the earth and its elements, the designer replied, simply, "standing on solid ground." Hmm. The comment was interesting not only because it was pretty opaque but also because the thing Lim got at really well in this collection wasn't earthen solidity but flux. That was especially true of this season's standout looks, which featured geode-inspired embroidery on organza. Geodes, for those readers who haven't visited a natural history museum in a while, are those rocklike mineral formations that split open to reveal swirls of many-hued crystal; they are a record of a moment of becoming. Lim's embroideries captured that, as did (to a lesser degree) his geode-inspired silk prints. Elsewhere, Lim took on the variegated palette and texture of seemingly monotone landscapes, translating that quality into metal-mottled, patchworked, and pearlized leathers. The pieces themselves never felt obnoxiously literal, though; women are going to like a fluid, knee-length skirt made from contrasting leathers whether they get the backstory or not. And Lim being Lim, there were a ton of garments here that were all about commercial rather than conceptual appeal— to wit, the wide-leg cuffed trousers or the pieces in sherbet-toned jacquard. Lim is an avid explorer; he just chooses to do his exploring close to home. On terra firma, as it were.

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear	Runway Review

Created with the HTML Table Generator

Derek Lam has always designed for down-to-earth women with worldly tastes. His new 10 Crosby collection tapped into his contemporary customer's natural side with organic fabrics and a predominantly neutral color palette, which was influenced by a series of black-and-white photographs capturing Zanzibar's sandy beaches. A strapless wrapped top and relaxed wide-leg trousers were cut from hemp linen, while a loose raw-cotton trench, which appeared almost sun-bleached, was punctuated with black leather trimming. Refined sweatshirt dressing was a key concept for Resort, and 10 C design director Elizabeth Giardina continued to elevate the sporty staple this season with a bolero sweatshirt paired with white leather overalls (a standout look), as well as beautiful woven pullovers that crisscrossed over the torso. Other highlights here included graphic guipure-lace dresses and pencil skirts (reminiscent of several pieces from Lam's Spring ’13 mainline collection) and a two-in-one tailored jacket with a built-in button-up shirt. Why hasn't anyone thought of that before?

"A clever remix" was how design director Elizabeth Giardina described the new 10 Crosby Derek Lam collection, which centered on the ideas of elevated sweatshirt dressing and rounded silhouettes. The opening outfit aptly illustrated the casually elegant mood. Instead of doing the sporty pullover and relaxed trousers in standard terry or neoprene, which we've seen ad nauseam the past few seasons, they were cut from a sturdy double crepe that gave them an effortless sophistication—particularly when shown in head-to-toe white. "We wanted to treat wovens like they were jersey," said Giardina. Elsewhere, they treated jersey like it was a woven, adding fancy French seams to slub T-shirts.

Giardina took the edge off tailored blazers with soft, dropped shoulders, and updated comfortable track pants in supple blush-pink leather. Polka dots were used as a motif throughout and neatly tied in with the curved shapes. They came sliced and diced on a pair of silk pants and flocked on sheer blouses. Laid-back evening looks like a tuxedo jumpsuit with a fluttering semicircular shirttail completed the collection.

At 10 Crosby Derek Lam, the bold colors and punchy prints that have been mainstays the past several seasons were dialed down in favor of a new emphasis on texture and textiles. Design director Elizabeth Giardina said she and Lam hoped to cultivate the 10 C customer's natural yet smart approach to style with a tactile lineup full of hushed nude tones and rich neutrals. A classically tailored overcoat cut from glossy faux pony hair set a strong tone for outerwear, while a full selection of weekend knits ranged from clingy, delicate cardigans to chunky peplum sweaters. Giardina chose somewhat scratchy fabrics (they weren't half as bad as that sounds), like the nubby wool of a cummerbund-detail jacket or a long-sleeve party sheath made from allover holographic sequins with a scored, imperfect effect. Accessories are an expanding category, and the pointy, zippered patent flats and to-the-knee python boots energized a collection that was, all things considered, the contemporary line's most sophisticated to date.

SPRING 2014 READY-TO-WEAR	10 Crosby Derek Lam

Created with the HTML Table Generator